Sunday, 5 February 2012

Anya Hindmarch

Cultural education teaches us to admire the lyric poem, the painting, the sonata: practically useless and loftily removed from the rude mechanics of living, these artefacts form the aristocracy of human production. But often it is the everyday objects that do more to transfigure us and make us at ease with ourselves. Around our personalised ipod playlists, our trainers, shoes, phones and fountain pens (do I show my age?) we can feel ourselves crystallising:  they tell us who we are, who we want to be. Fashion is about how we fashion ourselves.


For Anya Hindmarch, the transcendent object was her first handbag. But she didn’t just enjoy the moment, and move on. Instead, she set out on a journey to set up her own business – everyone in her family ran a business - first selling bags brought from Florence (still a capital of luxury leather), then building up a catalogue of original designs. The journey involved learning how bags are made, tracking down suppliers, craftsmen, designers, putting steam-bent wooden handles onto leather herself in the early days, building up a team. She started with a £1K loan from her father (to be repaid with interest, I said they were business people) and now presides over the ‘Anya Hindmarch’ empire, with gorgeous shops, prices to match, and an annual turnover of £26m.
All this makes it sound easy, but, as Anya spelled out in her inspiring talk (title: Skip uni, and start a business), the entrepreneur’s journey is anything but simple. The only real guarantees are lack of funding, heartbreak moments, and bureaucracy doing its normal grim work of smothering creative endeavour. So the precepts of someone who has made such a spectacular success of it all are worth attending to, whether you’re in business or not. Here are some that stuck in my head:

·         Believe in yourself. Corny, but true. Visualise yourself as you would like to be, and work to become that vision.

·         Don’t be arrogant! No one is entitled to be a success, and the obstacles are there to test you.

·         Take your opportunities. If a chance comes to do something interesting, go for it. Interesting things lead to other interesting things. (Also, she confided to a largely male audience, girls like boys who do interesting things).

·         Think of a product you love and believe in, where there’s a gap in the market.

But this talk was anything but a bullet-pointed sermon. There was a self-effacing personal history, followed by a slide show following the movements of the business through the last decades, with semi-subliminal pics of models – and a lively Q&A (Anya had brought mags and sweets as bribes, but I think there would have been plenty of questions without them). The whole thing was delivered with great charm (hence my pally reference to ‘Anya’, who by the way is from Essex not Russia). So charming was it that I could even smile at the paean to the Thatcherite 80s: we right-thinking folk are supposed to hate the eighties, the age of the yuppies and sloanes, but clearly it was also a time in which some of our brightest entrepreneurs could take root and flourish. Anya’s charm and passion for the product were a long way from the snarly, testosterone-high world of The Apprentice, or the scary dragons sitting in their weird warehouse den with piles of money sitting pointlessly beside them. I wonder if these popular media images of the business world really help the cause of attracting the next generation of makers and doers.
As for the ‘skip uni’ part, it made me think about the funny gap between the academic and the business worlds. Many schools are now involving local businesses and enthusing young people with ideas about enterprise, and many universities have business schools too.  But there is still this notion around in some quarters that learning and commerce occupy separate spheres. I once heard a refined soul deploring Poetry Day on the grounds that it received funding from a businessman. But our whole culture is funded by business.  Shakespeare was a businessman, so was Dickens, so were the workshops of the Renaissance artists. A Steinway piano is a product.  Q&A ended with thoughts on how the business environment could be made easier (employment law, apprenticeships).  I wanted to ask if she was thinking of making manbags, but didn’t for fear of laughter. So I didn’t get a mag or sweets.